Danube Cycle Path: Passau to Budapest

My Danube Cycle Path Journey

With its approximately 2850 kilometers, the Danube is the proud second-longest river in Europe! It has now been accompanied by the Danube Cycle Route for around 40 years. The cycle path was one of the first long-distance cycle routes to attract tourists from home and abroad. And to this day, the route is considered the most popular in all of Europe.

Hi there — and welcome! I’m sharing my adventure as I cycle the beautiful Danube Cycle Path from Passau to Budapest. It’s something I’ve dreamed about for a long time — following the river through stunning landscapes, discovering little villages, soaking up history, and of course, enjoying plenty of coffee and strudels along the way.

I’ll be sharing my experiences as they happen — the good days, the wobbly moments, the beautiful surprises, and the occasional wrong turn. Along the way, I’ll include practical tips, daily routes, where I stayed, what I ate, and anything else that might help if you’re planning your own trip.

The journey begins on 15 July with an early Qantas flight from Wellington to Sydney. Then after a 4 hour cafe break a British Airways direct flight to London arriving at 5.30am. A short stop then catch another 2 hour flight to Munich to stop in this wonderful city for a couple of days to recover. It’s 40hours of economy seating all the way so a challenging trip to start this 6 week odyssey cycling around European canals.

The Route at a Glance

• Total distance: ~630 km (390 miles)
• Countries crossed: Germany, Austria, Slovakia, Hungary
• My daily pace: I aimed for 45–60 km per day, which allowed time for sightseeing, coffee breaks, and photo stops.

The route closely follows the Danube River, which means: almost entirely flat! There are a few gentle hills now and then (the Wachau vineyards come to mind), but overall this is one of the most accessible long-distance cycling routes in Europe.

Scenic Highlights Along the Way

Passau (Germany)

My starting point: the beautiful “City of Three Rivers” where the Danube, Inn, and Ilz meet. A perfect place to stock up on supplies, explore the old town, and get a feel for the journey ahead.

Schlögener Schlinge

One of the most photogenic spots on the whole route — a dramatic U-shaped bend in the Danube surrounded by forested hills. There’s a great viewpoint if you fancy a short hike.

Linz (Austria)

A lively city with a nice riverside promenade, excellent bakeries, and plenty of art and history. Perfect for an overnight stay and a bit of city energy.

The Wachau Valley (Austria)

This stretch was one of my absolute favourites: endless vineyards, tiny villages, castle ruins, and the spectacular Melk Abbey. I took my time here — highly recommended!

Vienna (Austria)

You can’t ride past Vienna without spending at least a day or two. Coffeehouses, palaces, museums, and cycle-friendly streets made it one of the highlights of the trip.

Bratislava (Slovakia)

Much smaller than Vienna, but equally charming. The old town is very walkable, and the castle gives great views over the city and river.

Budapest (Hungary)

The grand finale. After days of peaceful river scenery, arriving in Budapest was both exhilarating and a little surreal. Thermal baths, grand architecture, bridges, and a well-earned celebratory meal — the perfect way to finish.

Cycle Itinerary (Passau to Budapest)

18 July: Passau → Schlögen – 42 km
19 July: Schlögen → Linz – 50 km
20 July: Linz → Grein (via Mauthausen) – 54 km
21 July: Grein → Melk – 50 km
22 July: Melk → Krems – 37 km
23 July: Krems → Vienna – 83 km
24 July: Rest day in Vienna
25 July: Vienna → Altenburg – 49 km
26 July: Altenburg → Bratislava – 32 km
27 July: Bratislava → Győr – 85 km
28 July: Győr → Komárom – 55 km
29 July: Komárom → Esztergom – 55 km
30 July: Esztergom → Budapest – 55 km
31 July: Rest day in Budapest

Wellington to Munich

Tuesday 15th July

It’s been a long journey to get to the start date. This ticket was first purchased for October 24 and changed a few times but day has finally arrived and headed to Wellington airport at 3am for the 6am flight to Sydney.

Not too worried about early start as have many, many hours in a plane to sleep and recover. After a 6 hour stopover in Sydney it’s 13.5 hours to Singapore, a short transit stop then another 8 hours on to London landing at 5.30am. If that’s not enough travel another quick stop at Heathrow then on to Munich.

I arrived Munich without too much problems despite having to change terminals at Heathrow and a tight turnaround to get the Lufthansa flight but made it without too much trouble. A journey of this length and to opposite time zone usually leaves me very jaded for first week but I managed to get several long sleeps on the flights I arrived midday in Munich. What a wonderful surprise to arrive on a warm summers day and to wander around the beautiful city centre and enjoy being out of the plane seat and stretching muscles. The apartment I am staying in old town was not ready for few hours so perfect for a familiarisation jaunt around streets and find cafe to settle in for lunch.

The apartment I am staying at is in Old Town centre which is the perfect location as I am here for 2 days before heading by train to the historic city of Passau and starting my cycle following the Danube River to Budapest. I checked in late afternoon and after a short rest to recover somewhat from 2 days of travel it was back out to roam around and find somewhere for dinner.

Munich is one of the most beautiful cities and I loved the vibe of old buildings and hectic streets. This city is famous for beer halls and outdoor gardens for eating and entertaining. It wasn’t too difficult to find the perfect place close by for outdoor dining and my first Stein of German beer.

munich

Starting in Marienplatz, I joined a small group beneath the towering Glockenspiel, its figurines already preparing for their famous dance. As the Rathaus-Glockenspiel chimed above us, our guide painted vivid pictures of medieval merchants, royal parades, and markets that have filled this square for centuries. I am using the local guides walking tour and they usually identify themselves by holding a coloured umbrella.

From there we wandered past the Frauenkirche, its twin onion domes standing tall against the Bavarian sky. Inside, the quiet coolness was a welcome break from the lively streets, and I found myself staring up at the stained glass, imagining the generations of Munich locals who have prayed here.

We traced the narrow lanes of the Altstadt, learning how the city was rebuilt after the Second World War—stone by stone, street by street. The Viktualienmarkt pulled us in next with its stalls of sausages, cheeses, and fragrant flowers. I could have spent hours here just tasting and people-watching.

The tour ended at the Residenz, the former palace of the Bavarian monarchs. Its courtyards and ornate facades felt like a fitting finale—a reminder of the city’s layers of power, art, and resilience.

I marked this restaurant on the tour and headed back afterwards to enjoy a leisurely brunch.

Passau to Schlogen

Friday 18th July
Distance : 48km
Path: Easy

Day 1 and checkout of hotel and walk to station for 1 hour trip to the magnificent historic city of Passau, known as the “City of 3 Rivers”. This is one of the traditional starting places for the Danube cycle and is where the Danube River joins the Inn River from the south and Ilz River from the north.

The first stop is to visit Passau Rentals located at Passau Train Station to collect my rental bike and then without stopping it’s on to the trail and begin cycling. I have chosen to rent a bike here as Passau Bike Rentals offer a collection service from Budapest, my last stop. The plan is to leave the bike and stay a few days exploring before flying direct to Paris for next part of my European cycling odessey.

Leaving the baroque spires and pastel houses of Passau behind, I set out along the Danube Cycle Path following the river downstream as my guide. The route quickly slipped into quiet countryside, with forested hills rising on both banks and the occasional church spire marking out a village tucked against the water’s edge.

From Passau, the recommended riding is mostly on the right (north) bank of the Danube. You can cross the river at several places either by bridge or small car ferries that operate at several places. This side carries you through Obernzell, a charming riverside town, before continuing on traffic-free paths that weave between the river and wooded hillsides. I have left Germany and now crossed into Austria, there is no border post these days however, the Danube River is the border for a few countries along the way and crossing the river changes countries. The cycling is easy and flat, with long stretches of smooth asphalt making for relaxed pedalling. There are many large river cruise boats travelling the Danube and I stopped to watch them navigating through some of the large commercial locks.

As the river narrows and begins to twist through deep green valleys, the landscape feels almost alpine in scale. The highlight comes as you approach the famous Schlögener Schlinge, the dramatic meander where the Danube doubles back on itself in a huge S-curve. Here, ferries and small bridges allow you to switch banks if you wish, but most cyclists continue on the right side until Au. From there, the left bank gives the best approach into Schlögen itself, with views opening across the bend.

Arriving in Schlögen, the sense of journey is rewarded: cafés and guesthouses line the riverbank. My accommodation is at Gastoff Zum Heilgen Nikolaus is located another 5km along the trail and in an idyllic location on the banks of the Danube. It’s one of the most scenic spots on the entire Danube cycle route—and the perfect finish to a first day out of Passau.

Schlogen to Linz

Saturday 19th July
Distance: 54km
Path: Easy

I woke up to an already warm morning but being close to the water there was a thick mist covering the river and an eerie view of a barge sailing through the fog. After quick breakfast it was on the road and retrace my path back to main road and some motorway cycling before meeting the Danube tow pathway again.

Leaving the dramatic loop of the Schlögener Schlinge, the Danube Cycle Path quickly unfolds into one of the most scenic rides of the journey. The morning begins with mist lifting off the water, revealing steep, forested hillsides that close in tightly around the river. The path hugs the bank, flat and easy to follow, while the Danube twists and bends in broad arcs.

Small riverside villages appear along the way, each with its church spire and quiet ferry landing. It’s worth pausing at Aschach an der Donau, where brightly painted townhouses line the square, a reminder of the Danube’s centuries-old role as a trading route.

As the river valley gradually opens out, the ride becomes more spacious and pastoral. Flat farmland and wide meadows replace the cliffs, and you start to feel the pull of the city ahead. Approaching Linz, the skyline changes: bridges span the river, cyclists and pedestrians share lively paths, and modern architecture stands alongside baroque churches.

Arriving in Linz feels like crossing into a new world — from quiet river curves into a buzzing Upper Austrian capital. The main square (Hauptplatz) is perfect for a celebratory stop, with cafés spilling onto the cobblestones and the Danube never far from view.

This stage is easy riding, almost entirely flat, with plenty of places to pause. It carries you smoothly from rural tranquillity to vibrant city life — a real highlight of the Danube journey.

Linz to Ardagger

Sunday 20th July
Distance: 62km
Path: Easy

Leaving the bustle of Linz, the Danube Cycle Path quickly returns to its gentler rhythm. The bridges and modern skyline fade behind you as the river stretches wide and calm, framed by meadows and quiet farmland. The path is flat and smooth, with long easy stretches that make for carefree pedalling.

Soon, the ride passes through Mauthausen, a small riverside town with a striking medieval square and cobbled lanes. It’s a place of beauty but also deep history — the Mauthausen Memorial nearby offers a moment of reflection on the area’s past. Cycling onward, the landscape softens again into orchards, fields, and quiet villages where time seems to slow.

The Danube here feels expansive, almost lazy, curving gently as ferries glide across and local anglers cast lines from the banks. The cycle path often runs right beside the water, giving constant views of the river’s flow.

By the time you reach Ardagger, the character of the journey shifts once more. This charming little town welcomes you with its baroque church, cosy inns, and the inviting riverside atmosphere that makes it a natural stopping point. I arrived early afternoon and the locals had a Sunday village lunch at cafe alongside. I was an early to check in to hotel so manager gave me iced water and I found shady spot to relax and get out of the 30deg sun wait for opening time. Sitting with a cool drink by the Danube, watching the evening light turn golden across the water, feels like the perfect end to a day’s ride.

Ardagger to Melk

Monday 21st July
Distance: 65km
Path: Easy

Leaving Ardagger in the morning, the air was still cool, perfect weather for cycling as the day normally heats up by afternoon. The town of Ardagger is a few kilometres away from the Danube and the direct route was into the hills above the river and through the pristine Austrian countryside. Eventually the road joined the Danube tow path again and I could cycle quietly alongside the path. This section of the ride carried a steady rhythm—smooth towpaths, the river on one side, and fields and villages opening out on the other.

IThere was a feeling of simplicity in the journey, a chance to ride without barriers or weight, just the steady turn of the pedals and the open landscape ahead.

The path gradually revealed the character of the Wachau Valley. Vineyards stretched along the slopes, marking the region’s reputation for fine wine, while clusters of fruit trees and small farms reminded me how deeply this land is tied to cultivation and tradition. Passing through villages, the houses carried that familiar Austrian charm—bright façades, neat gardens, and church spires that seemed to rise naturally out of the countryside.

Riding without layers brought me closer to the elements of the day. I felt every change in the air—the warmth of sunlight when clouds broke, the sudden coolness when the path dipped into shade. The sounds of the ride were unfiltered too: the rush of the river, the call of birds overhead, and the faint echo of church bells across the valley.

Approaching Melk, the scenery grew more dramatic. The river curved gracefully, and then, rising above it all, the great Benedictine abbey appeared. Its golden towers commanded the view, a reminder of centuries of devotion and learning. Arriving beneath those walls on two wheels felt humbling, as though the entire day’s quiet journey had led to this point of grandeur.

Cycling into Melk was not just an arrival at a destination, but the closing of a peaceful, reflective stage along the Danube.

Melk to Traismauer

Tuesday 22nd July
Distance: 45km
Path: Easy

It’s an easy cycle today only 45km today which a few days ago would have been a big challenging but is really only few hours. However the cycle path doesn’t always follow river and I finding it a challenge to guess which side of the bank to follow that has the best trail. The first hour or so was idyllic and I enjoy the cooler temperatures in the morning before the day warms up into the 30s.

Leaving Melk behind, with its golden-topped abbey still visible from the Danube path, the route eases into one of the most beautiful stretches of the Wachau Valley. The cycling path here is smooth and well-marked, hugging the river as it winds through postcard-perfect villages like Aggsbach, Spitz, and Weißenkirchen. Each town has the cobbled lanes, wine taverns, and glimpses of terraced vineyards that climb steeply above the riverbanks.

The Wachau is world-famous for its Riesling and Grüner Veltliner, and the path feels almost like a vineyard promenade—rows of vines lining the hills, with small cellar doors tucked among stone houses. At times, the cycleway slips right alongside the vines, giving a real sense of riding through the heart of wine country. The river is always nearby, with little ferries crossing back and forth, inviting detours to the opposite bank.

As you near Traismauer, the valley widens and the hills step back, leaving more open farmland and a gentler landscape. Although the ride felt easier and more relaxed i once again found the trail ending and having to double back a few times to get back on a correct cycle path. Seems odd to get lost with such big river to follow but picking which side of the bank to ride in is really the challenge. Traismauer greets you quietly, a small town where Roman history and wine culture blend, the perfect spot to end the day and reflect on the journey.

Traismauer to Vienna

Wednesday 23rd July
Distance: 75km
Path: Easy

I’m staying at the wonderfully named hotel of Bed, Bike and Breakfast Hotel which as happens is part of a wonderful cafe I discovered yesterday when arrived early. The arrangement is have the complimentary breakfast here and it’s an early start so I can get going early. I have long 75-80km ride today so start early and get finished before day heats up too much.

Leaving Traismauer, the route continues to follow the Danube eastward. The river is broad and calm here, with small villages and farmland stretched along the banks. The cycle path is well-paved and flat, making it an easy day’s ride without much effort required.

The first part of the journey passes through quiet stretches of countryside, with orchards and fields giving way to riverside meadows. Every so often, small ferry crossings and boat landings remind you of the Danube’s long history as a transport route. Towns such as Tulln offer a good spot to pause for coffee or a snack, with their small town squares and relaxed pace.

As the day goes on, the scenery gradually shifts. The path begins to carry more cyclists and day-trippers as you draw closer to Vienna. There’s a sense of moving from rural Austria into its capital city, with bridges, industrial ports, and finally the first sight of Vienna’s skyline in the distance.

Entering Vienna by bike is straightforward, as the Danube Cycle Path brings you directly into the city. The approach runs alongside the New Danube and through parks, offering a surprisingly green entrance for such a large capital. It feels like a natural progression rather than a sudden arrival.

This stage is not demanding in terms of terrain—mostly level riding on dedicated cycle paths—so it’s a comfortable day in the saddle. By the time you reach Vienna, the reward is the chance to swap small-town Austria for the cultural highlights of one of Europe’s great cities, while still remembering the quieter rhythm of the riverside ride that brought you here.

Rest day Vienna

Historical Hitler Walking Tour of Vienna

Walking through Vienna with a focus on its WWII history offers a different perspective on the city. Away from the grand palaces and music halls, this route highlights places connected to the war years and the impact they had on local life.

The tour often begins at Heldenplatz, a square that played a central role in the city’s 20th-century history. It was here that Adolf Hitler gave his 1938 speech after the annexation of Austria, and standing in the square today gives a quiet moment to reflect on how recent those events really are.

From there, the walk usually leads into the Judenplatz, the historic center of Vienna’s Jewish community. The Holocaust Memorial here is a simple, stark reminder of the lives lost. The square is calm, and the monument is surrounded by older buildings, which makes the contrast between past and present especially striking.

Continuing on, many tours include a stop at the Gestapo headquarters site on Morzinplatz. Nothing of the original building remains, but memorials have been placed there to mark the spot where many were interrogated and imprisoned.

Other parts of the walk may take in everyday places that once had wartime significance—such as bomb shelters, hidden courtyards, or buildings that show traces of damage and later reconstruction. These points are not always obvious without a guide, which makes the walk informative as well as reflective.

The tour usually ends at the Stadttempel, the city’s main synagogue, which survived the destruction of Kristallnacht because of its location among other buildings. It continues to be a central place of worship and memory for Vienna’s Jewish community.

Overall, this walking tour doesn’t move fast or cover a large distance. Instead, it takes time to connect landmarks with stories, showing how Vienna lived through the war years and how the city has chosen to remember them today.

Vienna to Altenburg

Thursday 25th July
Distance: 72km
Path: Easy

Leaving Vienna by bike is surprisingly calmer than the cycle into the city a few days ago. It was supposed to be short ride today so relaxed start and departed my hotel slightly later than normal at 9am. I am in city centre with lots of great cafes which allowed time for leisurely breakfast before cycling slowly around quiet streets before heading onto the trail. The Danube Cycle Path follows green corridors out of the city, passing through stretches of parkland and along the banks of the river. Before long, the busy skyline gives way to quieter suburbs and flat farmland. The ride is mostly straightforward, with wide paths and plenty of places to stop for a short break.

what was supposed to be a more straightforward cycle following the river pathway turned into a maze of little islands that made me double back a few times. It seems if you pick the wrong bank to cycle you can get into some lost pathways that just stop at river.
One of the more memorable moments on this stage comes at the Schiffscafé Strudel, a floating café on the river that also serves as a small ferry crossing.

At first Is seemed I was lost and doomed to retrace my path many kilometres back however more by good luck and good planning I found this ferry across to the river to rejoin the official pathway. Many cyclists pause here for coffee or a snack before rolling their bikes onto the ferry for the short trip across the Danube. The crossing is quick, but it gives a fresh perspective on the river and marks the shift from the urban edge of Vienna to more rural scenery.

On the far side, the path continues through villages, fields, and small wooded sections. Traffic is light, and most of the ride is on dedicated cycle routes. Small towns along the way make good stopping points if you want to take it easy, though the riding itself remains gentle and uncomplicated.

As the day goes on, the route begins to feel more countryside than city outskirts. You pass quiet hamlets and stretches of farmland before finally reaching Altenburg. The town is modest in size, but its baroque monastery is an impressive landmark, standing on a hill above the settlement. It’s a fitting end to a day that began in the bustle of Vienna and gradually eased into the slower rhythm of Lower Austria.

This stage is not demanding in terms of terrain—mostly flat, with the highlight being the ferry crossing that breaks up the ride and adds a sense of movement across the river itself. It makes for a relaxed but engaging day on the Danube Cycle Path.

I am staying at the wonderful Hotel Koenig Stefan in Altenburg and the owner tells me is famous for winning several awards for ice cream and deserts. It would have only been rude to turn down the invitation to try one.

Altenburg to Bratislava

Friday 26th July
Distance: 28km
Path: Easy

Today really is a short day so no need to rush, I only have about 30km ride which is now feeling more like a rest day. The weather looks threatening though with light spits of rain but forecast is for morning Ok and rain in afternoon. The ride from Altenburg to Bratislava begins quietly, following the Danube through farmland and small towns. The path is mostly flat and easy to follow, with long stretches where the river is close by. At the start of the day the sky was overcast, which kept the air cool and made for comfortable cycling.

About halfway through the ride the weather changed. The clouds thickened and heavy rain set in, turning the ride into a much wetter experience. Paths that had felt smooth earlier were slick, and it became less about sightseeing and more about steady pedalling to keep moving forward.

The rain arrived when I was cycling in middle of nowhere and nothing I could do but head down and keep going. The villages along the way offered some shelter, and Is was very grateful to come across an outdoor cafe to shelter in with other cyclists and wait out the worst of the weather.

Despite the conditions, the approach to Bratislava was straightforward. The Danube Cycle Path leads directly into the city, and by the time the skyline and castle appeared in the distance there was a sense of relief at being nearly finished for the day. Entering the city on two wheels was simple, even in the rain, and the streets quickly shifted from riverside paths to Bratislava’s urban center.

This stage wasn’t difficult in terms of terrain, but the weather made it more challenging than expected. The flat route kept it manageable, and arriving in Bratislava at the end of the ride felt like a good reward after pushing through the heavy showers.

I am staying at the new Radisson Hotel in city centre and fortunately was able to check in early and settle in somewhere out of the rain. The other mission was to find somewhere with internet and tune into the Wallabies v British Lions Rugby test that was playing this afternoon Slovakia time. The Radisson cafe was the perfect location to warm up and find a quiet corner to watch the game. I had no illusions it would be on local TV so discovered I could tune into 9Now Australian free to air TV and enjoy the afternoon sport.